Charleston native John Ondo has been a pillar within the Lowcountry delicacies scene for greater than three many years.
Many keep in mind his Mediterranean-inspired restaurant Lana on Rutledge Avenue. After Lana closed in 2017, Ondo ventured to Kiawah Island to be govt chef on the golf resort’s Ocean Course, a seven-year tenure operating each the Atlantic Room and the Ryder Cup Bar.
Virtually three many years in the past, Ondo labored as a line cook dinner within the Peninsula Grill kitchen after graduating from Trident Tech’s Culinary Institute of Charleston. His latest return downtown to take over as govt chef at Peninsula Grill is a real homecoming.
A chef’s journey
Situated at historic Planters Inn, Peninsula Grill opened in 1997, properly earlier than Charleston grew to become the culinary hotbed it’s as we speak. Founding Government Chef Bob Carter ran the kitchen till 2011 when Graham Dailey took over and captained the kitchen for six years. Beneath these two luminaries, Peninsula Grill established itself as a four-diamond and four-star restaurant identified for its white tablecloth service and 12-layer Final Coconut Cake, a trademarked, beloved dessert that has been on the menu for greater than 20 years.
As of late, Peninsula Grill’s menu will change with the seasons and replicate Ondo’s longstanding relationships with Lowcountry growers and purveyors. His meals is formed by worldwide influences, reflecting previous expertise cooking in Eire, Spain and Italy. He mentioned his plan is to honor the traditions at Peninsula Grill by placing his personal spin on it. That may imply meals that’s mild, balanced and herb-forward. Ondo cooks with a refined stability of acidity and richness, which interprets into meals that’s mild and nourishing.
“All of us have totally different types of cooking,” he mentioned. “For those who instructed me to cook dinner a dish, I’m going to provide it to you my manner. You go down the road to SNOB (Barely North of Broad) and inform Russ (Moore) to cook dinner you a similar dish, he’s going to provide it to you his manner. We’re going to maintain a number of the issues which have been staples on the menu for some time just like the lobster three-ways. I’m simply going to place my touches on it.”
He mentioned he believed in clear, easy meals.
“It’s the finest meals, simply elevate it and ensure it’s good. We now have to respect the home that we’re in and respect our visitors and purchasers and what they need and what they’re right here for.”
On the menu
Ondo developed the present summer time menu with Chef de Delicacies Dominic DeFilipo. Seafood towers, oysters and the aforementioned lobster three-ways will stay mainstays.
A Jimmy Crimson corn soufflé comes with a pinkeye pea French dressing, white cheddar and a peach drizzle. Heirloom native tomatoes include crispy Vidalia onions, chive oil and an additive pickled ramp ranch. Grilled lamb loin is served alongside Ondo’s Southern spin on tabbouleh, utilizing Carolina Gold middlins instead of bulgar wheat. The poulet rouge options seared breast, confit thigh and smoked pulled drumstick, served with sorghum, seasonal succotash and jus.
And whereas the coconut cake rightfully will get the glory, don’t miss the peach crème brûlée. One other Ondo signature is how he works the eating room, typically standing on the go hand-delivering plates to tables. It’s one thing he picked up at Lana, the place his enterprise associate would expedite meals deliveries and speak with visitors on Fridays and Saturdays.
“I discovered that our meals improved as a result of I used to be really seeing what was coming via the go as an alternative of holding down a station and being within the weeds myself,” Ondo mentioned. “It’s good to the touch tables, speak to your visitors and thank them for coming in. It’s enjoyable to work together with our visitors to get their suggestions to go alongside to my employees.”
The summer time menu will run via the top of August, when the restaurant will shut for a short makeover. It’s slated to reopen in late 2026, which coincides with a bigger lodge renovation that may final till early subsequent yr.
Whereas it’s no straightforward feat to take over a storied kitchen, the subsequent chapter of the Peninsula Grill is in nice palms with Ondo on the helm.
Ondo mentioned the celebs aligned to permit him to return to Peninsula Grill.
“It’s not each day that you simply get the chance to place your identify within the hat for an iconic property like this,” he mentioned. “Had it been every other restaurant, I most likely would nonetheless be dipping out of a meals and beverage assembly to go play golf out on Kiawah.
“I’m tremendous excited to shepherd this into the subsequent technology and stick with it what Bob and Graham so skillfully did all of the years in the past. I’m simply actually honored to have been tapped to do that.”
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